Wagner Valley Sled Dog Doppelbock (NY)

A spell of unseasonal warmth has passed, so I can pull out my fall/winter brews again. I've had this one before, and it might be my favorite of the brewery (although I've yet to try their Trippelbock).

This is a clear tawny-colored brew, syrupy looking, with a dying tan head. Pretty sweet up front: caramel and molasses and maybe raisins. Very slight roastiness as well. I like the soft carbonation and smooth palate, though it's maybe not quite as rich as the best doppelbocks. The finish isn't quite as long as I'd like either, but this is quibbling. It's 8.5% ABV, but that doesn't really come through until it warms my gut afterwords.

Nice doppelbock, if not a great one.

Wagner Valley Grace House Honey Wheat (NY)

There aren't to many American beers below 4% ABV, but this is one of them. Brewed with "locally crafted honey" from whatever bees are still alive, this wheat ale pours slightly hazy golden with a small head. It smells slightly of honey but also of pale lager. Or is that adjuncts? Like others from the brewery, it's highly carbonated, but that's better for this style than it is for their stout. If you can get past the fizz, you'll find a light-bodied brew with honey and the occasional hop. It is crisp and refreshing, which is the least you could want.

Nothing all that great, or even all that good. It reminds me a little of Blue Moon Honey Moon Ale, but I haven't had that since last year, so I could be misremembering. If you want to try this, save it for a sweltering day.

Wagner Valley Oatmeal Stout (NY)

I kinda liked the India Pale Ale from this Lodi, NY winery/brewery, so I figured I'd give the Oatmeal Stout a try. The brewer calls this a "classically brewed British style oatmeal stout," which brings to mind Samuel Smith's, but it turns out not to be like that at all.

Wagner's pours all but black with an overflowing beige head. It turns out that this is a very fizzy stout. It smells sweeter than it tastes. On the tongue, the expected roasted coffee/chocolate aspect is pushed to the point of being burnt. It's dry and moderately bitter, but I'm not sure if that's the hops or the dark roast. I don't mind this at all; it's interesting. But the thin, fizzy body doesn't cut it. If it only had SS's creaminess.

For those who can't find Wagner beers in stores, you can order from them directly online in most states. Shipping charges are pretty high, so I wouldn't recommend it for this beer, which is merely okay.

Wagner Valley IPA (NY)

The Finger Lakes area winery Wagner began brewing beer about a decade ago. In his book New York Breweries, Lew Bryson quotes the brewer as saying that their wine customers enjoy their beer, but not hoppy ones. Maybe this explains why this India Pale Ale was a somewhat late addition to their line of beers.

This pours an copper-orange color with a dirty white head. I caught a whiff of citrus and maybe herbs. The palate seems fine at first -- medium body, tight carbonation -- but it didn't seem to fill my mouth completely. Maybe this is an issue of taste. It didn't seem completely rounded out to me, hitting me on the top of the mouth, but not the tongue. After sampling, I came online to see others were saying about this, and was surprised to see that many rate this as a bit of a hop bomb. I didn't really see it that way (variations among bottles?). It does have a pleasant citrus flavor with a grassy or piney touch too it, but is less potent than most other IPAs I've had and even a few APAs. I don't sense the 6.2% ABV either (which isn't a criticsim). Overall, a beer that merits only a subdued recommendation from me.