Allagash Dubbel Ale (ME)

Speaking of Maine...

Allagash Dubbel -- "Dubbel Ale" in the squat 12-ounce bottle, "Dubbel Reserve" in the bomber, but the website lumps them together -- is a "unique beer with a complex malty taste and a remarkably clean finish," according to the brewer. Hazy, dark brown to amber colored with a fluffy white head, and you can't ask for better lacing. It's a really smooth beer, medium bodied with ample carbonation, but of the really soft kind.

It's malty, of course, but I ultimately think this is a bit on the dry side for the style. There's some raisins and definitely some anise/licorice. It's unfiltered, and the yeast comes through on the tongue. The finish is clean, just as promised. The brewery website says you can age this and it will pick up port or sherry-like aspects. I'm holding one back from the 4-pack, but I'll probably end up drinking it in a month or two.

Eight bucks for a 4-pack of is pretty good compared to Belgian imports, but it's more than I pay for Ommegang's eponymous ale, which I think is richer (but I'm comparing from memory). Still, this is very good.

Ommegang Abbey Ale (NY)

Cooperstown's Ommegang brewery will be 10 years old this fall, but it has had a pretty good decade. In 2003 it was sold to Duvel Moortgat, and the label says this was brewed and bottled in Belgium. Thankfully, it's not priced like an import. I paid $4.99 for a 750 ml at my local supermarket.

It pours a deep burgundy color with a tannish head that lasts. The smell is somewhat fruity and perhaps a bit roasted. It's medium bodied with a moderate amount of carbonation. The taste is malty with dark fruits in the background: figs, raisins, plums and whatnot. Maybe a little chocolate cake as well. The finish definitely lingers. At 8.5% alcohol this is a strong ale or a double, though it wears it well.

If you've never tried this style, I'd point out that all the talk of fruit doesn't mean this is a fruit beer. It's a strong, dark ale; this ain't Magic Hat #9. I'm not experienced enough in Belgian-style ales to know how Ommegang compares to the best, but this is very good brew.